When I hold a piece of exceptional cashmere, I can immediately feel the difference—the weight, the drape, the way it seems to mould itself to my touch. Yet for many women investing in their first quality cashmere pieces, the world of grades, mills, and manufacturing processes can feel bewildering. Let me share what I've learned about recognising true quality and dispel some persistent myths about this extraordinary fibre.
- Anna Murray, Founder
Decoding Cashmere Quality: The Grade System Explained
Not all cashmere is created equal, and understanding the grading system is essential for making informed choices about pieces that will remain beautiful for decades.
Grade A: The Gold Standard
Grade A: This is the finest quality, with fibres under 14 microns in thickness and typically longer in length. Grade A cashmere offers unparalleled softness and warmth. To put this in perspective, human hair measures about 70 microns—Grade A cashmere fibres are incredibly fine. These longest, most refined fibres create fabric that feels weightless yet warm, with a surface that remains smooth and lustrous over time. At Laing, we exclusively use Grade A cashmere because we believe in creating pieces that age gracefully alongside the women who wear them. The superior fibre length and fineness mean our garments maintain their shape better and pill less than lower-grade alternatives.
Grade B and C: Understanding the Differences
Grade B cashmere is about 19 microns while it is thicker than Grade A. Grade C cashmere is low quality cashmere in the market, it is about 30 microns, more thicker than grade B. While Grade B cashmere can still offer considerable softness, the difference becomes apparent in longevity and hand-feel. Grade C cashmere, while more affordable, lacks the luxurious qualities most women expect from their cashmere investment.
The Source Matters: Why We Choose Mongolian Cashmere
The finest cashmere originates from Inner Mongolia, where the harsh climate encourages goats to develop the dense, soft undercoats that produce exceptional fiber. Our partners—Moro and Consinee—are among the most respected mills in China, both fully vertical operations that maintain transparency throughout every step of the process.
Working with fully vertical mills like Moro and Consinee means complete transparency from raw fibre to finished yarn. These mills handle everything: sorting the finest fibres, de-hairing to remove coarse guard hairs, cleaning, carding, and spinning. This integrated approach ensures consistent quality control and allows for the meticulous attention to detail that Grade A cashmere demands.
Beyond the Yarn: Why Knitting and Finishing Matter
Here's something many people don't realise: even the finest cashmere yarn can be compromised by poor knitting or finishing techniques. The way yarn is handled at the knitting factory—the tension used, the gauge selected, the washing and pressing processes—all significantly impact the final quality of your garment. This is why we work closely with our manufacturing partners to ensure that our A-Grade yarn receives the careful treatment it deserves. The knitting process must respect the delicate nature of the fibres, while the finishing techniques enhance the natural properties of the cashmere without compromising its integrity.
How to Recognise Quality Cashmere
When shopping for cashmere, your senses are your best guides. Here's what to look for:
The Touch Test: Simply touch the cashmere product and feel it. Cashmere that comes with high quality and unique texture is made of long fibres, so you should feel incredible softness and pleasant sensation on the tips of your fingers. Quality cashmere should never feel scratchy or rough—if it does, you're likely touching a lower grade or a blend.
The Stretch Test: Gently stretch out a piece of the cashmere and see if it springs back into shape. Good quality cashmere will, lower quality cashmere will remain out of shape. This simple test reveals the fibre quality and construction integrity of the garment.
The Visual Inspection: Pick up the cashmere item, hold it at eye level, and look across the fabric's surface. You should see about 1-2mm of fluff or fibres. Longer fibres mean less pilling. If you see excessive fuzz or loose fibres, it may indicate shorter fibres that will pill quickly.
Check the Label: Always look for "100% cashmere" on the label. Blends may be less expensive, but they won't provide the true cashmere experience in terms of warmth, softness, or longevity.
Investment Dressing: The Long-Term View
When you understand cashmere quality, the investment aspect becomes clear. A Grade A cashmere piece from a reputable source, knitted and finished properly, will serve you for decades. Yes, it requires more care than synthetic alternatives, but the warmth, comfort, and timeless elegance it provides make it worthy of that attention. Grade A cashmere items can last you over 200 wears when properly cared for. Consider the cost per wear of a quality cashmere piece versus multiple lower-grade garments that need frequent replacement.
Making Informed Choices
At Laing, our commitment to Grade A Mongolian cashmere from vertical mills like Moro and Consinee reflects our belief that discerning women deserve transparency and quality. We want you to understand exactly what you're investing in—not just beautiful clothes, but pieces crafted to stand the test of time.
Understanding cashmere quality empowers you to make choices that align with your values: sustainability through longevity, comfort through superior materials, and confidence through informed investment. When you know what to look for, you can appreciate the subtle differences that separate exceptional cashmere from the ordinary.
Discover our collection of Grade A cashmere pieces, each one crafted from the finest Mongolian fibres and finished with the attention to detail that ensures lasting beauty and comfort.