I've wanted to go to Egypt for as long as I can remember. The kind of destination that sits on your list for years—too far, too complicated, never quite the right moment. And then suddenly it was exactly the right moment (a birthday trip), and I found myself standing in front of the Pyramids at Giza wondering why on earth I'd waited so long.
Here's everything—where I went, where I stayed, where I ate, and what I wore. Because packing for Egypt requires more thought than you'd expect.
Cairo: Where It All Begins
Egypt announces itself immediately. Cairo is loud (horns are a way of communication on the roads), layered, magnificent and completely overwhelming in the best possible way. Start here—there's no other option.
The Pyramids of Giza need no introduction, but nothing prepares you for the scale of them in person. I stood there feeling genuinely small in the most wonderful way. A hat was non-negotiable—the Egyptian sun is fierce even in the cooler months.
The Grand Egyptian Museum deserves an entire day. Possibly two. The Tutankhamun collection alone is worth the trip—treasures so extraordinary and so beautifully presented that I found myself standing in silence more than once.
For dinner on the first night, Khufu's Restaurant at the Pyramids. If you do one dinner in Cairo, make it this one. The view of the Pyramids lit up at night while you eat is simply unbelievable—one of those moments you file away permanently.
Before leaving Cairo, don't miss Old Cairo—the historic heart of the city where Christianity, Islam and Judaism have coexisted for centuries. Visiting the Hanging Church, the Ben Ezra Synagogue and the Al-Muallaqa area gave me a deeper understanding of Egypt's extraordinary complexity and history that the tourist trail alone never could.
We stayed at the Sofitel El Gezirah—and if you're going to Cairo, this is where I'd tell you to base yourself. The Nile views are extraordinary, the sunsets from the terrace are something else entirely, and the location in Zamalek puts you in one of Cairo's most beautiful neighbourhoods with great shops, cafes and restaurants on your doorstep.
Aswan: Slow, Beautiful and Completely Magical
The pace changes in Aswan. The Nile feels narrower due to the cataracts, the light softer, the whole city slower paced and sitting right on the edge of the Sahara.
The Aswan Dam and Philae Temple are remarkable—Philae in particular, relocated stone by stone (like Abel Simbel) to save it from rising floodwaters, feels like a miracle of both ancient and modern engineering.
But the moment that stayed with me most was watching the sun set over the Nile with the Feluccas drifting past in the golden light. There are no words that do it justice. You simply have to be there.
The Old Cataract Hotel is a bucket list moment in itself. Agatha Christie stayed here while writing Death on the Nile—and sitting on that terrace overlooking the Nile as the sun goes down, a drink in hand, you understand completely why she was inspired. The architecture, the history, the setting—it's one of those rare places that lives up to every expectation.
Luxor: The Road Less Travelled
Most visitors travel between Aswan and Luxor by Nile cruise. We went by road—and I'd recommend it to anyone who wants to see a side of Egypt that the tourist trail misses entirely.
Small villages where life moves at its own pace. Children walking home from school. Local markets. Mad, wonderful traffic that somehow flows despite all evidence to the contrary. It's real Egypt, unhurried and unfiltered, and it gave the whole trip a depth that I hadn't expected.
Luxor itself is extraordinary—the Valley of the Kings, Karnak Temple, the sheer scale of ancient civilization on display is humbling. But our accommodation was the discovery I wasn't expecting.
Al Moudira Hotel on the West Bank is one of the most beautiful places I've ever stayed. Built like an oasis—extraordinary architecture, lush gardens, a working farm that supplies the kitchen, and local artisans whose work fills every corner. Farm-to-table dining in a setting so beautiful you want every meal to last longer. If you go to Luxor, stay here. Non-negotiable. Save for it as a special treat.
El Gouna: The Perfect End
After the intensity of Cairo, Aswan and Luxor, El Gouna on the Red Sea felt like exactly the right way to finish. A purpose-built resort town that manages to feel surprisingly considered—lagoons, waterways, beautiful architecture and the Red Sea on the doorstep.
The Steigenberger El Gouna was the base—and the Red Sea delivered everything promised. Snorkelling among tropical fish and genuinely healthy coral reefs was a real joy. I spent three days reading, swimming, snoozing and doing absolutely nothing with great enthusiasm.
El Gouna and the Red Sea is the reset button at the end of an extraordinary trip. Don't skip it.
What I Packed
Egypt requires more thought than most destinations—you're moving between temples where you need to be covered, dinners, heat, and sea, often in a single day. Here's what earned its place:
The Britta Barrel Leg Pant — comfortable enough for long days at the Pyramids, polished enough for dinner. Packs beautifully.
The Juna Tank — worn under everything, on its own, layered. The most hardworking piece in the bag.
The Kelly Short — perfect for afternoons and warmer days when the Britta felt like too much.
The Soleil Dress and Paloma Pant — evening pieces that looked considered without any effort.
The Runaway Bicycle Jon Shirt and Maya Dress — the handwoven silk-cotton pieces felt completely right in Egypt. Something about the craft and the colour felt at home there.
The Tanora Hat — non-negotiable. The Egyptian sun demands it.
Should You Go?
Yes. Immediately. Egypt is one of those destinations that recalibrates how you think about history, civilization and beauty. It's complex, occasionally chaotic, endlessly fascinating and completely magnificent.
Go with an open mind, comfortable shoes, and pieces that work as hard as you do. Make sure to get guides, its not a place to travel without inside knowledge.
One thing worth mentioning for anyone who's been hesitant about Egypt: it's changed enormously. Since the opening of the Grand Egyptian Museum, tourism has become central to the country's economy—and it shows. Better policed, far fewer aggressive hawkers than in previous years, and a genuine warmth and pride in showing visitors what Egypt has to offer. I felt comfortable and well looked after throughout.
Kelly Short, Soleil Dress, Paloma Pant are available online from the 21st of October.